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Introduction
As you arrive in Cartmel village, you become aware of an atmosphere of
welcome and, if it is not a busy time, a pleasing tranquillity. This walk
leaves from Cartmel¹s racecourse and climbs steadily through woodland
and over pastures. It continues to Speel Bank, a sylvan, isolated area,
where there is a deer farm. Quiet, indistinct paths take you beside deciduous
Collkield Wood, where, as you climb the stone steps over a high wall,
a magical moment occurs - see below. The way then carries on over the
airy slopes, with a small diversion to lofty How Barrow, where a pause
is essential to enjoy the stunning view. The route goes on below Mount
Barnard and along the Cistercian Way to Cartmel, where you will want to
enjoy the village?s pleasing hospitality.
Cartmel Priory is the village?s greatest treasure. In 1190 William Marshal, Baron of Cartmel, founded an Augustinian priory as a thank you to Richard I (1157-1199). The king had increased Marshal?s wealth and influence and later, under Henry III, he became Regent of England. The priory was dissolved by Henry VIII (1491-1547) and most of the buildings were destroyed. The villagers lived around the precinct of the priory, but after the Dissolution moved within its walls. The church, St Mary and St Michael, remained ?unpluckt? after local people pleaded they could worship there, but the lead was stripped from its roof. The priory is at the heart of the community and is a place of worship as well as a venue for concerts and other social events.
In the centre of Cartmel village is a square, with ancient fish slabs and a pump. In front of each of the surrounding old-world houses, shops, inns and teashops are small cobbled forecourts. On these, on summer weekends, stand tables occupied by visitors enjoying the sun and the good food. Under a lofty gatehouse - a remnant of the Priory buildings, owned by the National Trust - a narrow road leads off from the square. Another narrow lane of stone shops and cottages leads westwards to cross a picturesque bridge over the shallow River Eea. Northwards runs another narrow street of pretty houses and cottages, which leads to Cartmel Racecourse.
Cartmel Races take place during the spring and summer Bank Holiday weekends. Legend has it that these were organised by the monks of the priory as their Whitsun break after a season of austere duties. In the past the grandstand and all the paraphenalia required for the very successful steeplechase meetings were taken down and stored until the next year. Now it is a permanent course and includes a building with a gallery from which Lord Cavendish, patron of the Priory and owner of all the land around, can be seen looking down on the crowds that flock to these Bank Holiday jamborees, where people picnic, punt and enjoy the fairground fun.
Mount Barnard was the first choice of the monks on which to build their Priory. Then, when one of them had a prophetic dream telling him to build beside water, they decided to establish their monastery beside the River Eea, which winds so gracefully through the village.
Getting to the start of the walk at grid ref 377788
The walk
1. Take the signposted footpath, near the entrance to the car park, that
crosses, right, over the racecourse. Go through a gate and cross the race
track to pass through a kissing gate into woodland. Climb straight up
through the trees to struggle through a narrow squeeze stile. Press on
along a pasture, keeping close to a wall and hedge on your right. The
next stile gives access to a narrow road, where you turn right. Walk on
for 50 metres to bear left up a wide signposted track on the left. Follow
the track, which is wet in places, to its end. Here take the overgrown,
short, tree-lined path that goes ahead in the same direction as the track.
Beyond the gate, bear right along another overgrown path that brings you
to a signpost and the front of a dwelling. Head on and turn left, as directed
by the waymarks, before outbuildings that stable horses.
2. Go through the next gate onto the open fell. Then strike diagonally
to the top right corner. Beyond the gate, walk on for a few metres to
cross a small stream on a clapper bridge. Continue with the stream to
your left to wind, right, round the corner of a wall and walk up beside
it to a stile tucked in the next corner. Go ahead to take the next stile
and then stride on towards Wall Nook. Pass through the gate and walk left
in front of the dwelling. Follow the tarmacked track as it winds right
and, where it is joined by an access track coming in on your left, take
the squeeze stile through the wall on your left. Head, right, across the
corner of the field to a stile onto a narrow lane.
3. Turn left and begin the long, delightful walk along the virtually traffic-free
way. Pass Over Ridge on your left and continue on along the lane to reach
Speel Bank farm. Here look for deer scattered about the pastures. Follow
the gated track as it winds right and, at the signpost, ignore its directions
and go ahead to pass through a waymarked gate. This takes you along a
walled way and then continues for a little way beside the wall on the
left. Then climb, half right, to a waymark beside a small section of a
wall, coming in on the right. Go on with Collkield Wood to your right,
to come to a step stile over the high wall.
4. Once over (the steps are widely spaced and the first step is very high
for short legs!), pause here to enjoy that magical moment, a wonderful
view which includes the Coniston Fells, the Leven Estuary and the Hoad
monument at Ulverston. Then turn left and stroll the delightful high level
ridge. Keep parallel with the wall, on your left, for just over half a
mile. When you come to the far end of a wood on your left and are faced
with two gates, take the one on the right. Continue on close to the wall
on your left until it ends and then go on a clear tractor-marked way to
pass through a gate. Walk ahead. Soon the wall turns away and drops left.
Continue on, with views away left to the Kent estuary and, to the right,
the Leven estuary.
5. Drift gradually right, with the track, to come to a gate in the wall
on the right. Beyond, a path leads uphill to the trig point on How Barrow,
where you will want to dally and admire the view. Then return to the gate
and walk on to join the Cumbria Coastal Way (CCW) coming in on your left.
Walk on and, ignoring all other gates, bear half right across the pasture
to take an obscured CCW signposted gate into the woodland of Mount Barnard.
It is important here to access the correct gate.
6. Carry on along the track, with a young plantation to the right and
Mount Barnard, tree-clad, rearing up to your left. Then the way moves
into denser conifer woodland before emerging into an open pasture, with
oak woodland away to your left. Beyond the next gate, turn right to continue
on the Cistercian Way and descend gently along the track until you reach
a narrow road, going off left, which you take.
7. Follow it uphill and then down. Go on where it becomes a track through
coniferous woodland and where it leaves the trees and continues on as
a wide way to return to Cartmel.
Fact File
Distance: 6 1/2 miles
Time: 3-4 hours
Map: OS Explorer OL7
Terrain: Generally easy walking. Gently graded climbs and descents. Some
paths can be muddy.
Suggestion
You will want to end your walk in the village, exploring its many nooks
and ginnels, visiting the Priory church and perhaps taking tea or an evening
meal in one of the teashops, cafes or inns.