Ulverston
This friendly historic market town nestles between the mountains of the lake district and the waters of Morecambe Bay. It has fascinating ginnels and its cobbled streets hold many delights for all the family. In the town centre you will find an old world atmosphere and a host of specialist shops whose appearance has changed little over the years. There is a thriving artistic community. The many events held throughout the year include, in September, the spectacular lantern procession created by Welfare State International in Lanternhouse, the organisation?s new centre for the celebratory arts. Besides Sir John Barrow (see below), the other famous son of Ulverston is Lord Birkett, the lawyer who represented Britain at the Nuremburg trials. He also represented Mrs Wallis when she filed for divorce before marrying Edward VIII.

Ulverston Canal
Once Ulverston had many mills producing bobbins, malt, hoops, canvas, linen-check and sailcloth. Other products included slate, bar-iron, iron-ore and gunpowder. These needed to be exported by sea, but the town¹s port was strangled by silt during the 18th century, so in 1796 a mile-long canal was constructed, linking the town with the Leven Estuary. The canal was engineered by John Rennie and was believed to be the widest, shortest and deepest cut in Britain. A triangle of trade developed: gunpowder was exported to Africa; there it was exchanged for slaves, who were taken to work in the plantations of America; then raw cotton was brought back to Ulverston?s new spinning mills. Three-storey houses in a fine terrace passed during this month?s walk were once occupied by the families of ships? captains who sailed out of the canal basin. The seaward end of the canal was sealed off in 1949, creating a lovely, quiet stretch of water, where only ducks, gulls and swans disturb the placid surface. It has meadows on one side. Towards its end, on the opposite bank, stands the huge Glaxo plant. What a change of sight and sound from the days when innumerable boats travelled to and from Ulverston¹s factories lining the canal.

Hoad monument
High above the town, on Hoad Hill, stands a tall monument, an imitation of the Eddystone lighthouse. It was built in 1850 in memory of Sir John Barrow (1764-1848), under-secretary to the Admiralty and a founder of the Royal Geographical Society. He was born in a small cottage at Dragley Beck, to the south of the town. From the monument, visited on the walk, there are spectacular views of the town and the estuary.

The Gill
This was once the site of hiring fairs. Look for the sculpture that marks the start of the 70-mile Cumbria Way. The route is depicted on its side. This is the pay-and-display parking area from where this walk starts and where there are toilets.

Getting to the start of the walk at grid ref 285785.
The Gill lies north-west of war memorial in Market Street. To reach it from the A590, using Ulverston?s one-way system, head north at the large roundabout on the A-road, following the road signs for the town centre. At the mini-roundabout, bear left and turn immediately right to continue along a very narrow road. The Gill lies to the left, just beyond the place where the road emerges from the confining shops and houses.

The Walk

1. After looking at the sculpture at the start of the Cumbria Way, leave The Gill, west, following the sign for the long distance trail. Walk the tarmacked lane, with Gill Banks Beck to the left, over the wall. At the Y-junction, take the left branch. Carry on the pleasing way. Ignore the left turn and go on along the gently climbing lane. It is traffic-free and passes under forest trees. At the top of the slope there is a grassy clearing, with a picnic table and a seat. Follow the delightful way and emerge from the trees by a wrought iron kissing gate - the first of many on this walk. Walk ahead to pass a small weir on the beck and then go through another fine kissing gate onto Old Hall Road.

2. Cross and go through a similar gate onto the lower slopes of Flan Hill. Climb steadily, with the wall to your right, watching for a dramatic glimpse of the monument to your right. Follow the clear path, passing through another kissing gate. Then wind on, gently, to another gate to the B5281. Turn left and walk, with care, for a few metres to take a country lane going off right. Enjoy this way for just under a quarter of a mile. Then take a track, on the right. There is no signpost, but the name The Falls is on the right wall. Press on along this pleasant way to climb a stone step stile to the left of the cattle grid at the start of the small settlement. Here turn right (no signpost at the time of writing), before the first house, to descend a well kept lawn. Bear left to a waymarked gate.

3. Beyond, descend the track, with a tiny stream to the left, to pass through the next gate. Go down the narrow stony track (more stream than track at some times of the year), which passes between tall hedges atop low turf and stone walls. Follow the track as it bears right and becomes dry and a pleasure to walk. Enjoy the glimpses of Newland Bottom to your left. Go through the gate at the end of the track.

4. Immediately turn right and climb the banking, which can be muddy, onto a pasture (no signpost and a sad dilapidated stile). Walk ahead, parallel with the wall to your right. Go through a gap in the derelict wall ahead and continue, uphill, to climb the ladderstile in the next wall. From here there is a good view of the estuary and of tranquil Newland Bottom. Go on up beside the hawthorn hedge to your right and, after weaving left and then right round a wet area, strike straight up the pasture to a gate and another iron kissing gate. From here you have a dramatic sighting of the monument.

5. Carry on beyond the gate and descend a little to join a wide track, where you turn left. Soon the monument towers, overhead, to your right. At a faint grassy Y-junction, bear right to climb to the tower. Maybe it will be open and you will want to climb to the top. Then return to the Y-junction and bear right. The grassy trod comes to the edge of the very steep hill. Here the way continues, bearing steadily right, down steps and then along a good reinforced path, still very high above the town. There are seats all about the hill where you might wish to pause. Descend to the foot of the hill and go through another iron gate.

6. Beyond, descend a few stone steps and wind left. Almost immediately, turn right to walk one of Ulverston?s interesting ginnels. Go on where it continues as a road. This leads to Hart Street, where you turn left. Continue on to walk in front of Sunderland Terrace, where many of the families of the ships¹ captains lived. Remain inside the protective railings, winding steadily left, until they end. Cross with great care and walk to the left of a large house to stroll alongside the canal. After a mile on the easy to walk path, beside the cut, you reach the old lock and the bridge over the end of the canal. Look left to see the dramatic Leven railway viaduct, strung across the waters of the estuary. The railway caused the decline in trade on the canal and finally its demise.

7. Cross the canal and then walk right, following the Cumbria Way sign, to pass the Bay Horse restaurant. Continue for three-quarters of a mile, inland, beside the Glaxo factory, now on your right. Ignore the two right turns, North Lonsdale Road and Cross Lane, and continue where the road begins to curve left. A short distance along, take a right turn along a ginnel. This leads to a tarmacked track, once a rope walk, where ropes were twisted and spliced. The track takes you beside Lund Beck, where you might spot a kingfisher. At the end of the rope walk, cross the road and go on to take a left fork, Watery Lane. Cross Well Lane and carry on along Lightburn Avenue. Turn right to pass under the railway bridge.

8. Continue ahead along Victoria Road to the Rose Gardens, where you might like to sit and enjoy the flowers. Then cross the by-pass to walk ahead into County Square, overlooked by the Coronation Hall. The latter was built in 1914 and houses a 636 seat theatre and the tourist information centre. Take the second left, into Theatre Street, and then left again to walk another ginnel - this is known as Rack Alley, another rope walk. Turn right into Queen Street and continue to the cobbled Market Street. Continue on King Street and then left into narrow Upper Brook Street, passing on the right the Laurel and Hardy Museum. Stan Laurel, the thin one, was born in the town. Stroll on and then bear slightly right to return to The Gill.

Suggestion
Why not visit the small, friendly town. It is full of interesting shops, pubs and good cafes. It has a lively outdoor market, held on Thursdays and Saturdays. It also has an indoor market every day except Wednesdays and Sundays. Look for the plaques set on old buildings that tell what they were used for in the past.